Category: Tasmania

On 10/02/2020 we travelled on winding roads uphill out of Queenstown towards Derwent Bridge for a one night pub stay (hooray, no cooking or washing up! And the best curry we’ve had in Australia).

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On 08/02/2020 we left Waratah for Queenstown for 2 nights as a base for both the West Coast Wilderness Railway and for Strahan. We have not done either Queenstown or Strahan justice but our time in Tasmania is coming to an end so trying to pack in as much as we can!

We are free camping at the Oval, Queenstown (an old copper mining town) which was an AFL ground that terrified opponents as it is gravel! Nowadays it it used as a free camp and for town events e.g. fireworks displays and sunday local cricket.

As soon as we arrived we drove the 45 minutes to Strahan on more up/down windy roads except no caravan so a lot more fun! Strahan is a beautiful village on the Gordon River. We would liked to have stayed longer.

Today (09/02/2020) we went on a half day trip on the West Coast Wilderness Railway, the only Australian tourist railway using the ABT rack system for 7KM. The ABT navigates a 1 in 20 and a 1 in 16 grade sections. Very impressive! The trip was really well thought out e.g. we swapped sides on the way back so everyone gets a chance to see the same scenery; one way you face back and the other way you face forward.

There were stops on the way and lots of stories about the use of the train line between Queenstown and Strahan (although our trip did not go as far as Strahan). The trains are the original and have been in operation for over 100 years (a few years out of service between the end of mining and the start of the tourist rides). A great trip!

Tomorrow (10/02/2020) we are off to Derwent Bridge to visit ‘The Wall’.

We left Arthur River and bitumen behind on our way to Corrina on 04/02. The road to Corrina was well graded so with the tyre pressures down it was a comfortable ride. Only 100km but took 2 hours of careful driving and fingers crossed hoping we would not meet anyone. As always Paul drove to the conditions, we never had anyone following us, passed one parked camper van and one car at a passing place.

Corrina is a campground on the Arthur River banks where there is a barge for small vehicles to cross (we do not qualify!). There is also a very welcoming warm pub which we visited after a walk that was not quite as expected. We had planned to walk along the banks of the river. However, the walk took us up hill, after an hour of going uphill we decided to give up!

The next day (05/02) we drove to Waratah. We have a lovely powered site (4 nights without water or power, we are very pleased with the caravan) and the weather has allowed us to put out the awning, yippee no wind and 21c.

On our second day we got up early to drive to Cradle Mountain National Park. We were surprised how commercialised it seemed to us but as so many people want to visit they had to stop cars going up to the area and provide shuttle buses. As we were early everyone thinned out so we enjoyed the 6 km walk around the lake (and a further 2.5km which we were persuaded to do along the banks of river…). Despite the number of visitors the scenery is breathtaking.

On our last day in the area we’ve stayed locally. Firstly to the Philosophers Falls. The walk was through beautiful myrtle woodland with 200 steps to get to the viewing platform; not the best view but the walk made up for it (except when walking up the 200 steps!). Then to a viewing platform over the Tarkine area. Lastly, we stopped at the falls in the centre of Waratah but being lazy we decided not to walk to the bottom!

Tomorrow (08/02) we head off to Queenstown for 2 nights to visit Strahan and a ride on the West Coast Wilderness Railway.

Lovely road from Launceston to the North West for a one night (01/02) free camp at the Yolla Tavern to explore Stanley. The weather was not so great when driving (high winds and driving rain) but again Paul drove brilliantly to the conditions.

Amazingly the weather has not stopped us exploring as we are rugged up and seem to dodge the heavy showers. The scenery in the north west is breathtaking and very green (I guess that’s the rain!).

We parked up at Yolla Tavern just before opening time but decided to get off to Stanley rather than check-in. Stanley is the other side of an isthmus this is our third Tasmanian isthmus we have visited (I have used the term more times in the last 2 weeks than in my entire life!). Stanley is famous for the Nut (a sheer sided bluff, the remainder of an ancient volcanic plug) which you can walk up but I bravely agreed to the chairlift (anything to get out of walking up hill!). At the top there is a circular track allowing amazing views from all directions with surprising fauna and a very steep track down.

We got back to the Yolla Tavern, which wikicamps had promised has a fabulous welcome and dinner 7 days a week. We found to the doors firmly locked. Paul knocked loudly on the door which eventually elicited a response from a kid saying they were closed. It was a bit worrying, we were wondering if anything was wrong. For the next few hours other vans arrived (some stayed, some left) along with locals. The next day there was a post on wiki camps saying the landlord was ill. Very odd not to put a note on the door. I was very disappointed as it meant I had to cook (and wash-up…. I’ve decided a dishwasher is the thing I miss most in the van!).

We then travelled onto Manuka Campground at Arthur River for two nights (03/02 & 04/02) to drive the Tarkine Way.

On arrival at Arthur River we went for a drive along the coast visiting the Edge of the World (a lookout with Tarkine Coast views), Sundown Point (ancient aboriginal rock carvings), Nelson Bay (beautiful beach) and Sarah Anne Rocks (another beautiful beach).

Today (03/02) we drove the Tarkine Way, a circular drive with lots of stops of which we picked: Sumac Lookout (view over the Arthur River), Lake Chisholm (flooded limestone sinkhole) and Trowutta Arch (geological feature).

Next stop is a one night stay at Corrina on the Arthur River banks and then onto Waratah for access to Cradle Mountain.

On 27/01/20, we left St Helens and took to the easy route to Launceston. Well if that was the easy route, I can’t imagine what the Elephant Pass was like. As always Paul’s driving was brilliant, and we arrived at Old Macs Farmstay safely for 5 nights to visit Launceston (Tasmania’s second largest city situated in the north of the island) and surrounding areas.

We love Launceston. This seems to be a recurring theme in the Tassie blogs and with good reason. Each place we go to we love. It’s a toss-up between Hobart and Launceston as the place we’d like to live in. The scenery up here is breathtaking, roads to get here, not so much!

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A short drive north from Bicheno to St Helens to provide access to the Bay of Fires. As its Australia Day weekend we decided not to risk finding a free camp on the beach. Instead we are staying in a quiet low cost site in St Helens, a lovely town situated on the banks of Georges Bay.

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From Sorell we drove up the Tasmin Highway north along the east coast. Although a major road it was interesting when towing a large caravan! Paul did a great job. Accommodation is a bit hit and miss as we approach the Australia Day long weekend but we lucked out with Bicheno. A lovely little town with loads to do and great access to the Freycinet National Park which is the main reason for the destination.

On arrival we walked along the Bicheno foreshore path which included a blow hole as well as rocky path to follow. The following day (23/01) we had much needed rain in the morning but in the afternoon the skies cleared and we walked up the two lookouts in Bicheno – great views.

Today we got up early and drove to the Freycinet National Park which did not disappoint. We walked up to the Wineglass Bay lookout but decided not to walk down and back up the 1000 steps to the beach! Instead we drove back stopping at Honeymoon Bay, Cape Tourville Lighthouse, Sleepy Bay, Coles Bay and Friendly Beaches. A full day!

Tomorrow we are heading further up the east coast to St Helens where we hope to find a free camp and leave the van to visit Bay of Fires. We unfortunately mistimed the Bay of Fires – it will be full due to the long weekend. A day trip will have to suffice as we want to go into Launceston before heading to the northeast of Tasmania. Too much to see and do in Tasmania even with 5 weeks!

We drove from Hobart to Sorell for 2 nights to allow easier access for a day trip to Port Arthur. Our day started in rain which cleared by the time we arrived at Port Arthur; the sun even came out and the temperature rose to 20c!

Port Arthur totally exceeded our expectations in terms of scale, historical significance, scenic beauty and poignancy (both in terms of the convicts suffering and the 1996 massacre).

If you are ever in Tasmania, Port Arthur is a must. Your ticket includes a 45 minute introductory tour and a 30 minute catamaran tour. Both were fabulous and gave a good insight to allow further exploration later in the day. We thought that the introductory tour starting with recognition of both the aboriginal past custodians and the 1996 massacre was particularly well done.

After the very informative included tours we walked around the grounds visiting most of the remaining buildings. Unfortunately when the settlement closed in 1877 many buildings were dismantled and some destroyed in a bush fire earlier. However, the remaining buildings provide enough of an insight into understanding the harsh reality of the site. The visit is definitely a highlight of our trip so far.

On our way back to Sorell we stopped at Pirates Bay and although we did not see any pirates (Paul’s joke) the bay was amazing. It had white sandy beach, high cliffs, a blow hole one end and a tessellated pavement the other.

All in all a fabulous day. Tomorrow we start heading north to Bicheno for 3 nights by the sea.

Love Hobart! We have both enjoyed our short stay here (even if our caravan site was not picturesque).

It was an easy 45 minute trip from Huon Valley to the Hobart Showgrounds. We picked the Hobart Showgrounds for convenience being a 15 minute bus ride into the CBD.

In the morning we traveled around Hobart on the hop on / hop off bus which covered the top attractions: Brooke Street Pier, Salamanca Place, Battery Point, Wrest Point Casino, Cascade Brewery and Botanical Gardens to name a few.

After the bus we needed warming up so headed over to the Brooke Street Pier on the River Derwent to catch the catamaran to MONA. MONA was the Hobart highlight for us even though neither of us are into modern art! The museum was the vision of a Tasmanian millionaire who built it on his vineyard on the banks of the River Derwent. The museum is underground which gives you a strange feeling when viewing the art. Above ground there are gardens, sculptures, an open air stage, wine tasting, restaurants and bars.

We splashed out on a fabulous lunch followed by ice cream on the lawn listening to live music. We could have stayed longer but needed to get the catamaran back (also the live music changed from fabulous jazz to a duo that sounded like tuning a violin and strangling a cat – I kid you not!).

The next day was Saturday so we got up early to get to the Salamanca Markets. You have to be up for crowds so not for everyone but great to savour Tasmanian food: scallop pie, scallop and bacon sandwich, cherries, hazlenuts, cheese and chocolate. Not all eaten yet – looking forward to the scallop pie tonight!

Today was again an early start to drive up to Mt Wellington. Amazing road, narrow with lots of hairpin bends and vertical drops. I can see why a cable car has been proposed. Although Mt Wellington was not shrouded in clouds (a common occurrence) the view was hazy but it still gives a sense of the size of the harbour.

On the way back we stopped for a bush walk along which we encountered a wallaby and an echidna (rear only!).

We depart tomorrow morning (Monday January 20th) for a short drive to a free camp at Sorell for 2 nights. Sorell allows us a shorter drive to Port Arthur which is our next tourist destination.

We’ve arrived! Unbelievably there is some smoke but it still feels fresh and looks green after NSW and VIC. We are both relieved and excited to be visiting Tasmania.

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