What a surprise Kununurra and surrounds has been. We picked a great caravan park (CP) on the edge of town at the foot of the Mirima National Park (NP). One great feature of Kununurra is that due to the dams, water is never an issue. In fact weāve been encouraged to wash our car and van to water the grass at the CP which has been fantastic for us to get rid of the red dirt from the last month in the Kimberley.
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We arrived in Wyndham on 03/07/2021 for a 5 night stay. Wyndham Caravan Park (CP) is a lovely haven: beautiful trees, beautiful grass and little dust. Yippee! And the weather is just perfect: blue skies, no humidity, little breeze, warm days (30) and cool evenings(15).
Wyndham is a very nice small town. Some facts about Wyndham: the most northerly town in WA, daily tides rise and fall up to 8.3m and one of the hottest places in Australia with an average maximum daily temperature of 36c.
On 04/07/2021 we drove to the Five Rivers Lookout on the top of the Bastion Range where you can see five Kimberley rivers (Ord, Forest, King, Durack and Pentecost) where they combine and enter the Cambridge Gulf. It is also a popular spot for watching the sunset so we returned later that evening. Beautiful place to watch the sunset. There were also some very tame rock wallabies which is unusual as they are normally very shy.
On 05/07/2021 we drove (off road …… so more tyre deflation …. and dust ….) along the King River Road which gave us fabulous views of the Cockburn Range. Along the route is the town water source dam, billabongs, aboriginal rock art and a Boab Prison Tree (every town in the Kimberley seems to have one!).
On 06/07/2021 we drove to The Grotto, a small canyon reached by 140 steps down (which means up too….) that has a waterhole at the base. The waterfall had already dried up and it wonāt be long before the waterhole does too. We didnāt go for a swim although our neighbours in the CP did and they encountered a snake……. Iām so pleased we did not go in. We then drove to Parry Creek Farm for morning tea. The best fruit scones weāve had so far (better even than Ellenbrae) with strawberry jam and clotted cream. Yummy.
On 07/07/2021 we had a day of chores and a swim at the town pool which we both really enjoyed. On 08/07/2021 we depart for a short drive to Kununurra for an 11 night stay which will get us over the school holiday period.
El Questro Station / Resort is a destination at the end of the Gibb River Road (GRR) east of the Pentecost River (the river flooding closes the road in the wet season) and the end of the gravel (yippee!). It offers all types of accommodation/camping, walking tracks, 4WD tracks, lookouts and croc free swimming holes. It has recently been taken over by an Australian company who are improving its battered reputation. Yes it is over priced but the facilities are good. And to be honest everything in the Kimberley is expensive. We really have enjoyed our rest here after the GRR.
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We have endured the Gibb River Road (GRR). We felt the start and end had the best sights which are accessible without having to endure the 700km of corrugations. Really pleased with how the van coped with only one puncture.
The GRR was opened to service the large cattle stations in the Kimberley and through tourism is now the access to many national parks (NP) and stations in the region from Derby to Kununurra. It is still a truly remote part of the world.
The road is mainly gravel but is gradually being tarred to allow access all year around. In the wet season the road is inaccessible in places due to flooding and destruction of the road. It has a reputation for destroying tyres (more later) and caravans but as long as you deflate tyres, drive to the conditions and keep an eye out for washaways and large stones itās just rough (and takes lots of concentration).
Leaving Derby fully stocked on 15/06/2021 the first 100kms was tar, bliss….. We pulled over and deflated the 8 tyres as the gravel road approached. Itās going to be a very dusty 2 weeks.
We arrived at Windjara Gorge NP for a 2 night stay, the beginning of 7 days without electricity. When unhitching the van we found one of the safety chains had come loose and weād lost a shackle. Although Paul thought he could put something together I suggested asking fellow travelers. The first couple he asked had spare shackles the size we needed and gave it to us. They wouldnāt take any money (although they accepted the beers Paul took around later).
After setup we headed a further 35km to the Tunnel Creek NP. It was a good wet season this year so there was plenty of water….. up to our necks! And it was dark. Weād been told to take a torch but thought it was to highlight features not to actually see anything! I found it a tad scary (Paul mentioned fresh water crocs…) and half way we left our rucksack (with phone) as the water was too deep so not many pictures. Which is a real shame as it was amazing. Along the way there is a rockfall opening and a waterfall. At the end the tunnel opens into a beautiful creek which you can follow (we didnāt).
On 16/06/2021 we walked along Windjana Gorge. Windjana and Tunnel Creek gorges cut through rugged limestone ranges which form part of the WA Devonian period āGreat Barrier Reefā. Unlike the gorges of Karijini NP, these gorges tower on either side as you walk along the river bed. Still plenty of water along with basking fresh water crocodiles in the gorge (so no swimming….). There are fossilised primeval marine life forms on display in the limestone, such as a nautiloid. The day was finished off watching the sunset and the beautiful stars come out.
On 17/06/2021 we drove back to the GRR for our next destination of Mt Hart Wilderness Lodge in the King Leopold Ranges Conservation NP (50km off the GRR). The road was as expected with 27 reek crossings (many with water) so the van and car are covered in dust….. however, we have just about got the dust ingress under control while travelling so the van is a lovely haven after showers. (I walk around with my Wellington boots on to keep my feet clean š¤). The homestead is a wonderful green oasis. It even has a bar and restaurant! The campground is along the banks of a creek where we went for a refreshing swim after setup.
On 18/06/2021 after bacon and eggs we went to Annieās creek for a walk to a large Boab which is being slowly strangled by a fig. It was a cloudy cool day so it wasnāt warm enough for a swim and we collected wood for an evening fire. In the evening we drove to sunset hill which gives 360 degree views over the area. The clouds cleared enough to give the most amazing sunset. After supper we sat around the first fire we have had since Gem Fields with Jason and Jo.
On 19/06/2021 (NO bacon and eggs) we went to the Dolerite Gorge, named after the rocks of the gorge. The walk was a grade 4 (5 is the highest) as itās mainly scrambling over rocks with a couple of river crossings. Great to see the end with a lovely water hole leading up to a waterfall in the Barker river which we swam up to. Very refreshing for the walk back. In the evening we ate at the Lodges restaurant. As with so many places this year the menu is limited due to staff shortages. So nice having a meal cooked (and washed up…) by someone else. As expected the beer and wine was pretty expensive but canāt complain as we are miles away from anywhere.
On 20/06/2021 we visited Barkers pool on the Barker river but decided to have a swim back at the campground as it had easier access in and out. Another fire on our last evening under the clear starry sky. We have really enjoyed Mt Hart Wilderness Lodge. We had a really good camp spot overlooking the bush. Very very peaceful.
On 21/06/2021 we were back on the GRR for a nights stay in Manning Gorge. Well what a day it turned out to be….. should have been a 2.5 hour drive, however, before we got back onto the GRR we got a puncture. Positives: Our TPMS worked perfectly so we were alerted to the puncture straight away; we were on a straight wide track with little traffic; and the puncture was on the roadside; and as Paul has been doing wheel rotations heās an expert. So an hour later we were back on the road and nearing our destination when we saw a sign for āOver the Range Tyre Repairsā so we pulled in to get our tyres fixed. As we tried to negotiate other cars we went over some grass which was hiding a rather large log that jammed in between the caravan wheels. Luckily Paul realised quickly what had happened before we did too much damage. The guys at the repair shop were so helpful (and didnāt laugh at our stupidity….. too much….).
We deflated the tyres completely and the log was dragged out on a chain attached to a very old land cruiser. Amazingly no damage done, but the original puncture could not be repaired so a new tyre was purchased ($500, but not as much as the tyres we have on order from Katherine). After 40km of roadworks (single track mud road alongside the new works) and refuelling at $2.10/Ltr (ouch) at Mt Barnet we eventually got to Manning Gorge campground. We setup and went for a well earned swim in the beautiful Manning river before an early night after all the excitement.
An early start on 22/06/2021 for us to get to Drysdale River Station on the Kalumburu Road 60km north off the GRR. I think if I say that Iād rather be on the GRR than on the Kalumburu Road may give you a hint about the condition of the road. We are both feeling the GRR is an endurance rather than a pleasure at the moment, the detour to Drysdale River Station has shown us how severe corrugations can really be. We were hoping that after 2 days relaxing and the planned 2.5hr sightseeing flight over the Mitchell Falls will make us feel differently. However, the clouds descended on 23/06/2021 (which would have been my motherās 90th birthday) so our flight was cancelled. We have decided to leave tomorrow (24/06/2021) and spend 2 nights at Ellenbrae Station before our week at El Questro.
What a welcome sight Ellenbrae Station was on 24/06/2021. Back down the Kalumburu Road was just as weād remembered it but the GRR to Ellenbrae Station was good. As we left Drysdale a day early we are staying 2 nights. There is a couple of waterholes for swimming and a restaurant serving lunch/tea (toasted sarnis and scones, yummy) at the homestead. A lovely relaxing couple of days after the disappointment of Drysdale.
Now onto El Questro for 7 nights before school holidays start.
Derby is in the west Kimberley region of Western Australia near the amazing Horizontal Falls. Amazing is an understatement! Due to the tidal range (11 metre), volume of water in a connected lake and only one narrow water access point, the tide rushes through the channel to create a āhorizontalā waterfall.
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Half way up the Dampier Peninsular from Broome is Banana Well getaway with access to Beagle Bay Creek via a bush track with a tidal range of 10mtr, crocs and bull dust everywhere.
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After Karijini we headed slowly to Broome. First we spent 2 nights (26/05 & 27/05) in Port Hedland which is the largest Iron Ore port in the world (the one in Brazil is closed due to Covid). We went on a tour of the harbour run by the Seafarers Mission (a Christian non for profit organisation supporting seafarers in terms of disputes, illness, pay etc). It was amazing seeing these Cape class container ships (named cape as they canāt use the canals like panama) up close.
Our second stop was Barn Hill Station, a homestead and caravan park right on the beach 150km south of Broome. A beautiful spot to have a couple of nights (28/05 & 29/05) with some downtime.
On the morning of 30/05 we drove the short distance into Broome to Tanangau Caravan Park. Broome, largest city in the far north of WA. A truly tropical location and gateway to the Kimberley region (land of Crocs and Barramundi).
A few interesting facts about Broome: Broome owes its place as a tourist destination to Lord Robert Alastair McAlpine who built (amongst other things) the Cable Beach Resort along with many other improvements; there are no traffic lights due to potential power cuts during cyclone season, instead it has hundreds of roundabouts; house roofs do not have gutters as they get destroyed by the power of the rainfall, houses do not have water tanks as there is too much dust in the air that washes into the tanks; it has the 2nd largest tidal range in the Southern Hemisphere at 10.8m; it has a population of 15,000 residents that swells to 40,000 during the high (winter) season.
After setting up and doing the laundry (still need to wash even on holiday š¤£š¤£) we headed to Cable Beach for a swim. Lovely and warm with the right amount of waves for a bit of excitement. We then sat in the surf life saving club for a beer watching the sunset. Loving Broome already.
31/05/2021 started with a visit to the hospital for our first COVID-19 jab. This was followed by shopping for supplies including the bottle shop which is aptly named as no cask wine in Broome due to strict alcohol laws in certain country locations for locals, although being tourists we were allowed to fill our boots…..
01/06/2021 saw us take a bus tour of Broome with a small group including the highlights like Cable Beach, Gantheaume Point, Entrance Point, Japanese Cemetery, Town Beach, Sun Pictures and Broome Town. It was a good flavour of the town.
In the evening we watched the sunset followed by a scrumptious dinner at the Cichetti Club.
02/06/2021 we had a down day….. well, as much as the Tedderās have down days ….. in the evening we drove down at low tide to watch the Pearling Lugger and the camels along cable beach as the sun set.
03/06/2021 we drove out to Willie Creek Pearl Farm for a tour. We had an excellent guide who covered the process from birth to death of an oyster. Very interesting. Nothing goes to waste. But boy, are the pearls expensive! The day ended with a wander around the weekly market at town beach.
On our last full day we drove to the southern most beach of Broome (Cable and Town being the other two) called Riddell. The tide was going out so there were lots of rock pools to investigate and hermit crabs to annoy!
We have absolutely loved our time in Broome. Another reason we love WA.
Tomorrow (05/06/2021) we head north to the Dampier Peninsula. A remote part of WA which is slowly getting more accessible as the tar road is just about to be completed. We are staying a week at Banana Well which will allow several day trips to Cape Leveque, Kooljaman and Cygnet Bay.
In the Pilbara region of north west Australia, Karijini NP is in the middle of Iron ore mining country with its dark red rocks, red dust, spinifex grass and a myriad of gorges. We booked 4 nights to explore the park from the āso calledā Eco retreat (over priced cods wallop). Our time in Karijini was gorge(ous). Paulās joke not mine š.
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A long drive day on 18/05/2021 inland towards Karijini National Park (NP) our next big destination. Before then we have a couple of stops, firstly to Cheela Plains Station for 2 nights, a working station that has diversified into a camping destination and secondly Tom Price for 2 nights to visit the big mine and stock up.
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On 13/05/2021 it was a short drive from Coral Bay to Exmouth (the north of Ningaloo Reef). After a quick set up we investigated the town and then went out to dinner at a fabulous restaurant. The seafood weāve had since we arrived on the WA coast has been amazing. I had the seafood curry and Paul, the seafood gumbo. Wow, best dishes weāve had for ages consisting of soft shell crab, prawns, mussels and snapper.
On 14/05/2021, Paul got up early for a dive on the Exmouth Navy pier, one of the top 10 best shore based dives in the world. He was not disappointed seeing 6 sleeping white tipped reef sharks, shoals of big eyed Trevally and Snapper, moray eels, many big Cod and a 300kg, 2m long Grouper, known as BFG (big fat grouper), who hangs around the divers keen for attention. Due to onshore winds there were many Red Jellyfish on the surface which made the entry and exit from the dive more interesting. They are not poisonous but give a nasty sting (hoping they bugger off soon).
Bit of history…. The town of Exmouth was constructed in 1964 at the same time as the Harold E. Holt naval communications station to provide support to the base and to house dependent families of U.S. Navy personnel. The U.S. turned over control of the station to Australia in 1999 and withdrew all its personnel. It is the largest VLF (Very low frequency) installation in Southern Hemisphere used for communicating with submarines.
On 15/05/2021 we went on a coral viewing and snorkel tour to the other side of the North West Cape. We were picked up from the caravan park and driven to Tantabiddi boat ramp. Great knowledgeable crew who showed us lots of different coral and fish including 3 sleeping white tipped reef sharks. Very enjoyable snorkel. Ningaloo Reef is an incredible ābridgeā reef (a new term to us but means it is close to land so easy access. However, that brings other issues as it is closer to humans to ruin it! Presently it is very healthy with little bleaching. Hopefully it will stay that way.
We couldnāt understand the number of termite mounds but no trees to eat. Apparently, they drag plant roots into the mound and eat the fungi that grows on the roots. The mound has chambers that keep the temp at a constant 28c. The petentie lizard (4th largest in the world) lays their eggs in the mounds as itās a perfect incubator. You gotta love nature!
In the evening we drove to Charles Knife Canyon in the North West Cape National Park (NP) to watch the sunset with a drink. Had we realized how amazing the NP was weād have gone earlier to spend more time exploring. The drive and views of the canyon was incredible. After the sunset we drove back encountering a kangaroo. I wish they would stay off the roads š¤£.
On 16/05/2021, Paul had a full day to see the whale sharks. My sea legs are not good enough š¢. So I had a quiet day catching up on chores and some reading. Lovely!
Paul is a happy boy with good weather, not much swell and 6 different whale sharks all cruising slowly and happy to be filmed. A first swim with whale sharks. They are the largest fish in the sea. Locally between 3-9 meters in length. Not much is known about life cycle because once they reach 30 years of age they live at depths of up to 700m. Another fun fact is that Whale Sharks are negatively buoyant so when they want to descend, they just stop swimming and eerily sink (very beautiful to watch).
On 17/05/2021, our last day in Exmouth, we went on the Yardie Creek cruise. Good fun with a very knowledgeable guide showing us osprey, rock wallabies, mangroves and egrets to name a few.
On the way back we saw a very rough looking dingo before lunch at Kurrajong beach. Too many red jellyfish for a last snorkel but weāre very happy with our Ningaloo experiences.
We have loved our 5 night stay in Exmouth. Amazing diving, snorkeling and scenery. We could have stayed longer. On 18/05/2021 we start heading east inland for a week. Firstly at a station stay, Cheela Plains.
