The Gibb River Road (WK 13-14)

We have endured the Gibb River Road (GRR). We felt the start and end had the best sights which are accessible without having to endure the 700km of corrugations. Really pleased with how the van coped with only one puncture.

The GRR was opened to service the large cattle stations in the Kimberley and through tourism is now the access to many national parks (NP) and stations in the region from Derby to Kununurra. It is still a truly remote part of the world.

The road is mainly gravel but is gradually being tarred to allow access all year around. In the wet season the road is inaccessible in places due to flooding and destruction of the road. It has a reputation for destroying tyres (more later) and caravans but as long as you deflate tyres, drive to the conditions and keep an eye out for washaways and large stones it’s just rough (and takes lots of concentration).

We stayed at: Windjara Gorge NP, Mount Hart Wilderness Lodge, Manning Gorge NP, Drysdale River Station, Ellenbrae Station.

Leaving Derby fully stocked on 15/06/2021 the first 100kms was tar, bliss….. We pulled over and deflated the 8 tyres as the gravel road approached. It’s going to be a very dusty 2 weeks.

We arrived at Windjara Gorge NP for a 2 night stay, the beginning of 7 days without electricity. When unhitching the Van we found one of the safety chains had come loose and we’d lost a shackle. Although Paul thought he could put something together I suggested asking fellow travellers. The first couple he asked had spare shackles the size we needed and gave it to us. They wouldn’t take any money (although they accepted the beers Paul took around later).

After setup we headed a further 35km to the Tunnel Creek NP. It was a good wet season this year so there was plenty of water….. up to our necks! And it was dark. We’d been told to take a torch but thought it was to highlight features not to actually see anything! I found it a tad scary (Paul mentioned fresh water crocs…) and half way we left our rucksack (with phone) as the water was too deep so not many pictures. Which is a real shame as it was amazing. Along the way there is a rockfall opening and a waterfall. At the end the tunnel opens into a beautiful creek which you can follow (we didn’t).

On 16/06/2021 we walked along Windjana Gorge. Windjana and Tunnel Creek gorges cut through rugged limestone ranges which form part of the WA Devonian period ‘Great Barrier Reef’. Unlike the gorges of Karijini NP, these gorges tower on either side as you walk along the river bed. Still plenty of water along with basking fresh water crocodiles in the gorge (so no swimming….). There are fossilised primeval marine life forms on display in the limestone, such as a nautiloid. The day was finished off watching the sunset and the beautiful stars come out.

On 17/06/2021 we drove back to the GRR for our next destination of Mt Hart Wilderness Lodge in the King Leopold Ranges Conservation NP (50km off the GRR). The road was as expected with 27 reek crossings (many with water) so the van and car are covered in dust….. however, we have just about got the dust ingress under control while travelling so the van is a lovely haven after showers. (I walk around with my Wellington boots on to keep my feet clean 🤗). The homestead is a wonderful green oasis. It even has a bar and restaurant! The campground is along the banks of a creek where we went for a refreshing swim after setup.

On 18/06/2021 after bacon and eggs we went to Annie’s creek for a walk to a large Boab which is being slowly strangled by a fig. It was a cloudy cool day so it wasn’t warm enough for a swim and we collected wood for an evening fire. In the evening we drove to sunset hill which gives 360 degree views over the area. The clouds cleared enough to give the most amazing sunset. After supper we sat around the first fire we have had since Gem Fields with Jason and Jo.

On 19/06/2021 (NO bacon and eggs) we went to the Dolerite Gorge, named after the rocks of the gorge. The walk was a grade 4 (5 is the highest) as it’s mainly scrambling over rocks with a couple of river crossings. Great to see the end with a lovely water hole leading up to a waterfall in the Barker river which we swam up to. Very refreshing for the walk back. In the evening we ate at the lodges restaurant. As with so many places this year the menu is limited due to staff shortages. So nice having a meal cooked (and washed up…) by someone else. As expected the beer and wine was pretty expensive but can’t complain as we are miles away from anywhere.

On 20/06/2021 we visited Barkers pool on the Barker river but decided to have a swim back at the campground as it had easier access in and out. Another fire on our last evening under the clear starry sky. We have really enjoyed Mt Hart Wilderness Lodge. We had a really good camp spot overlooking the bush. Very very peaceful.

On 21/06/2021 we were back on the GRR for a nights stay in Manning Gorge. Well what a day it turned out to be….. should have been a 2.5 hour drive, however, before we got back onto the GRR we got a puncture. Positives: Our TPMS worked perfectly so we were alerted to the puncture straight away; we were on a straight wide track with little traffic; and the puncture was on the roadside; and as Paul has been doing wheel rotations he’s an expert. So an hour later we were back on the road and nearing our destination when we saw a sign for ‘Over the range tyre repairs’ so we pulled in to get our tyres fixed. As we tried to negotiate other cars we went over some grass which was hiding a rather large log that jammed in between the caravan wheels. Luckily Paul realised quickly what had happened before we did too much damage. The guys at the repair shop were so helpful (and didn’t laugh at our stupidity….. too much….).

We deflated the tyres completely and the log was dragged out on a chain attached to a very old land cruiser. Amazingly no damage done, but the original puncture could not be repaired so a new tyre was purchased ($500, but not as much as the tyres we have on order from Katherine). After 40km of roadworks (single track mud road alongside the new works) and refuelling at $2.10/Ltr (ouch) at Mt Barnet we eventually got to Manning Gorge campground. We setup and went for a well earned swim in the beautiful Manning river before an early night after all the excitement.

An early start on 22/06/2021 for us to get to Drysdale River Station on the Kalumburu Road 60km north off the GRR. I think if I say that I’d rather be on the GRR than on the Kalumburu Road may give you a hint about the condition of the road. We are both feeling the GRR is an endurance rather than a pleasure at the moment, the detour to Drysdale River Station has shown us how severe corrugations can really be. We were hoping that after 2 days relaxing and the planned 2.5hr sightseeing flight over the Mitchell Falls will make us feel differently. However, the clouds descended on 23/06/2021 (which would have been my mother’s 90th birthday) so our flight was cancelled. We have decided to leave tomorrow (24/06/2021) and spend 2 nights at Ellenbrae Station before our week at El Questro.

What a welcome sight Ellenbrae Station was on 24/06/2021. Back down the Kalumburu Road was just as we’d remembered it but the GRR to Ellenbrae Station was good. As we left Drysdale a day early we are staying 2 nights. There is a couple of waterholes for swimming and a restaurant serving lunch/tea (toasted sarnis and scones, yummy) at the homestead. A lovely relaxing couple of days after the disappointment of Drysdale.

Now onto El Questro for 7 nights before school holidays start.